letoilevin 星澈酒品的部落格

最偉大的Barbaresco佳釀

 Barbareco“Asili”Riserva 2014

Azienda Agricola Falletto di Bruno Giacosa

兩年前辭世的Bruno Giacosa先生，自15歲開始便跟隨祖父與父親學習釀酒，近70餘年的釀酒生涯所累積的聲譽，除了兩位同輩釀酒巨匠Bartolo Mascarello(1926-2005)和Giovanni Conterno(1927-2004)之外，應該無人能出其左右。由於從開始的一段長時間，酒莊都是以買來的葡萄釀酒，為了找尋最佳的葡萄來源，Bruno Giacosa先生足跡踏遍Piemonte產區的每一塊土地，從1961年酒標開始冠上其名字開始，至少釀造過來自9個Barolo和8個Barbaresco葡萄園的葡萄酒，對於這一片義大利最重要的知名產區可謂瞭若指掌，而且Bruno Giacosa先生天生有著過人的味蕾，可以輕易的嚐試分辨出不同區塊的最佳葡萄，所以不論是買來的葡萄(Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa酒標)或是自家擁有的葡萄園(Azienda Agricola Falletto di Bruno Giacosa酒標)，他總是能讓葡萄恰如其份的展現出絕佳的自然風味，釀成一款款有著無比深度的難得佳釀。

話說Bruno Giacosa先生的聲譽雖然同時橫跨Barbaresco和Barolo，不過或許酒莊位於Barbaresco產區Neive村內，Bruno Giacosa先生的Barbaresco總是獲得更多的愛慕。由於Bruno Giacosa先生堅持等待最佳的葡萄園，酒莊終於在1996年將位於Asili 和Rabaja (Barbaresco)的兩塊單一葡萄園得手購入，曾經購買遍全Barbaresco包括Montefico, Rio Sordo, Albesani和San Cristoforo等各處最佳葡萄來釀酒的Bruno Giacosa先生，這兩塊位於相鄰產區的自購葡萄萄園，都是他心目中全Barbaresco的最好地塊之一。想當然爾，這兩款Asili 和Rabaja一開始裝瓶上市，每個年份不管是白標的一般款或是特優年份的紅標Riserva，都被公認為世上最偉大的Barbaresco佳釀。

儘管已經是大師級的人物，自律甚嚴的Bruno Giacosa先生還是始終堅持最高的標準來生產每一款酒，特別是Falletto di Bruno Giacosa這一系列被視為是膜拜級的神酒，Bruno Giacosa先生曾在2009年突然宣布將所有已經在桶中培養多時的2006年份Barolo和Barbaresco放棄不裝瓶；而接下另一個被大家視為世紀年份的2010，他同樣完全不生產任何的Barolo和Barbaresco，這都讓許多酒迷震驚且覺得可惜，不過達不到心目中的理想標準就不上市，這是Bruno Giacosa先生向來堅持的哲理，也是值得大家尊敬的風範。

星澈酒品隆重獻上Barbaresco“Asili”Riserva 2014，只在最佳年份生產，大師級最偉大的Barbaresco佳釀，永遠值得等待與珍藏，配額十分有限，敬請參考並把握預購良機！

2014 Barbaresco“Asili”Riserva RP97

預購現金價*****.-/*****.-(1.5L)/ *****.-(3L)

Packaged in its distinctive red label (red is for Riserva), the 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Asili represents a tremendous effort in a challenging but ultimately very rewarding vintage. This wine will be released in February 2019. The previous edition was 2011, and Bruna Giacosa tells me that it will be produced in 2016 and possibly 2017—although this has not yet been officially confirmed. In a normal vintage, production is 11,000 bottles strong, but because of reduced yields in 2014 we can expect some 8,000 bottles instead. Growing conditions in 2014 were cause for concern up until the end of August because of humidity and below average temperatures. Those conditions changed suddenly in the nick of time, bringing strong sunshine and warmth during the final stage of grape ripening. Ultimately, 2014 proved to be a long growing season with healthy fruit in reduced volume. The Rabajà cru sometimes shows a harder edge with more mineral definition. Asili, in comparison, offers gorgeous intensity and profound depth. This Riserva shows seamless integration of wild fruit, blue flower, spice, balsam herb and pencil shaving. This is a complete and complex expression with an enduring sense of dimension and structure. I can’t wait to taste this wine one day in the far future when it is further along on its promising evolutionary track.                 

                                    Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate#237 June 30 2018

2014 Barbaresco Rabaja RP95預購現金價****.-

2017 Barbaresco Asili RP94(15)預購現金價****.-

預購期限：2020年03月30日或售完為止，此份報價不含運費，刷卡需另加手續費2~3%．預購交貨日：預2020年第四季

RP: Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate