letoilevin 星澈酒品的部落格

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Vina Tondonia Tinto Reserva 2005

Vina Cubillo Tinto Crianza 2008

The 1973 Vina Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva is so sublime, so complete and natural that it may bring tears to the eyes. It has a complex bouquet of beeswax, lanolin, lemon curd and almond that is effortlessly combined…. There is a beguiling sense of completeness here. Heaven in a glass, and one of the finest Tondonia Blancos I have encountered. ….. I have adored, indeed occasionally worshiped, the wines of Lopez de Heredia for many years, so I am not ashamed to admit that visiting both their vineyard and their winery was a pilgrimage.

                                                                   ~ Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

這是一家讓我最難忘懷，有如活著的百年葡萄酒博物館的西班牙酒廠。創立於1877年的López de Heredia讓釀酒技藝倒退一百年，卻也讓我懷疑是否該重新修習釀酒學。……曾有人說田帕尼優跟黑皮諾(Pinot Noir)有些近似，指的其實是像產自阿羅鎮附近、頂級且老式陳年的Gran Reserva，非常優雅。……我只能說López de Heredia讓現在的葡萄酒迷有直接通往百年前，品嘗上一世紀葡萄酒滋味的機會。            ~林裕森 (西班牙葡萄酒)

『1970 Bodegas López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, Viña Tondonia Tinto Gran Reserva以75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha與少部份Mazuelo, Graciano釀成。……，能喝到此酒，感到醉生夢死，醺然飄然，今夕何夕不過如此。 9.99分

1991 Bodegas López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva以90%馬卡貝歐（Macabeo; Viura）與10%馬瓦西亞（Malvasía）釀成，……尾韻極長，略有單寧感，依舊維持複雜口感（有蜂膠、甜洋甘菊茶、甘草與奶油爆米花氣味）。偉大白酒。 9.85分』    ~劉永智 (Jason’s VINO)

對釀造葡萄酒的藝術充滿無比的熱情Rafael López de Heredia y Landeta先生，發覺Rioja Alta這個產區的優異潛力在1877年創立López de Heredia Vina Tondonia(以下簡稱Vina Tondonia)酒莊，是Haro區第一家酒莊也是Rioja最古老的酒莊之一。

時間在Vina Tondonia彷彿是停滯的，放眼所及與感受到，讓人彷若置身在十九世紀的氛圍。堅持令人匪夷所思的百年前的方式釀酒，使用重達數公斤的直立式高木桶來採收葡萄、超過125年歷史的6,000~24,000公升大型發酵木槽完全讓天然酵母菌自然進行發酵，而這僅是所有釀酒細節中的一小項而已，其他更駭人聽聞的包括完全沒有控溫設備，讓酒自然發酵；白酒要經六年小型橡木桶培養，最頂級的紅酒甚至長達八年，而最青春的粉紅酒也長達四年。為防酒氧化變質，現在全世界的葡萄酒釀造專家沒有人會讓橡木桶培養超過24個月，八年剛好是四倍，這世上認為這些酒可以喝的人應該不會太多。

在Vina Tondonia陰暗潮濕，長滿灰黑黴菌，飄散著苔蘚與腐木氣味的地下酒窖裡，存放著八百萬瓶的葡萄酒，但每年卻只上市50萬瓶。這樣可笑的堅持真的只是食古不化嗎？或許這些老式作為在現代的教科書中會被嗤之以鼻，但當人們有機會品嘗過López de Heredia的酒款後，必定會認同Vina Tondonia才是時間的大師，Rafael先生早在百年前已經清楚明瞭並掌握到時間的脈動對葡萄酒釀製的巧妙影響，經年不斷才能累積的桶壁天然酵母、緩慢發展的木桶與瓶中陳年效果等等，這些都不是日新求異的現代科技可以速成創造出來的。如果想看看一百多年前的酒窖是如何釀酒，Vina Tondonia也許是全世界唯一活生生的葡萄酒博物館；如果無法親身前往，打開一瓶剛上市的Vina Tondonia，裡面裝的，正是那樣的百年滋味。

這樣一家堅持傳統拒絕隨波逐流的酒莊，從來不會是媒體專家聚焦的主流報導題材，但隨著過去十數年以來，拜全球葡萄酒追求回歸自然的潮流所賜，越來越多關於除去矯柔造作外表後葡萄酒的真實面貌之探討，Vina Tondonia成為最佳的教科書，受到各地無數釀酒師與酒迷的注目，因為他們過去汲汲營營所追求的複雜問題，解答就在Vina Tondonia那再簡單不過的哲理之中。

Vina Tondonia幾百年來堅持的釀酒傳統，吸引了全球許多的酒迷，先後前往拜訪的人，幾乎沒有人不被其所深深感動和著迷，簡單卻又深邃，無比的魅力就算用偉大都難以形容，讓國外專家Neal Martin喝下一口Vina Tondonia的葡萄酒就感動地落淚。百年來的傳統，Vina Tondonia堅持只使用來自自家葡萄園所精選的最佳葡萄，以古老的工藝純手工釀造每一款酒，尊重天地的自然的力量，堅信葡萄酒必須經過長時間的培醞才能成就芳醇的滋味，絲毫不能偷工減料，也就無須花俏的技法與高科技的設備，當然最後也沒有任何捷徑，只能耐心靜靜等候，就像這款今年春天最新上市的主力酒款-Vina Tondonia Tinto Reserva 2005，雖然酒莊僅僅謙卑的標示為Reserva，但釀造培醞的時間不但遠遠超過法定的三年，甚至超過Gran Reserva法定的五年，前後耗時將近十二年，才心滿意足地達到Vina Tondonia的標準來現呈獻給大眾；而連最年輕的另一款單一園紅酒-Vina Cubillo Tinto Crianza 2008，也是必須經過桶中培醞三年後，裝瓶再加上酒窖陳年五年以上，共耗時八年的光陰才推出市面，如此令人感動又值得敬佩的心意，放眼全世界，也只有在Vina Tondonia找的到吧！

星澈酒品獻上最新年份的Vina Tondonia Tinto Reserva 2005和Vina Cubillo Tinto Crianza 2008，百年傳統與十數年光陰結合才能幻化而成的感動滋味，絕對值得收藏與細細品味！敬請參考並把握預購良機！

2005 Vina Tondonia Tinto Reserva RP93 預購現金價****.-

2004 Vina Tondonia Tinto Reserva 1.5L RP94 預購現金價****.-

Vina Tondonia 是酒莊的奠基寶園，面積約100公頃，生產旗艦的Reserva和Gran Reserva紅白佳釀共四款。本款紅酒以Tempranillo(70%), Garnacho(20%)為主混釀約10%的Mazuelo和Graciano，發酵之後在大型橡木桶中進行陳年培醞六年之後，經蛋白澄清後裝瓶，再經過數年的瓶中陳年後才上市

The 2005 Viña Tondonia Reserva is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo from their vineyards in the meander of the Ebro River, where they have some 100 hectares of vineyards. The wine fermented in the original oak vats that are now some 140 years of age. There is no temperature control and malolactic was also in the vat. The wine was transferred to oak barrels where it slowly matured in their deep, humid caves for no less than six years. After this, it was bottled unfiltered after being fined with egg whites. I think the quality gap between the Reserva and Gran Reserva has been getting smaller since the 2001 vintage and this 2005 is nothing short of exceptional. It's clean and complex, with more freshness. The wine is very spicy and with a palate that feels very balanced, livelier than in the past. It has a long finish where the flavors are clean. Easy to drink and very pleasurable.     by Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate#226 31Aug 2016

2008 Vina Cubillo Tinto Crianza RP92 預購現金價***.-

Vina Cubillo為距離酒莊四公里、面積約24公頃的單一葡萄園，只生產此款以Tempranillo(65%), Garnacho(25%)為主混釀約10%的Mazuelo和Graciano的紅酒，發酵之後在大型橡木桶中進行陳年培醞三年之後，經蛋白澄清後裝瓶，再經過數年的瓶中陳年後才上市

The first of the reds here is the 2008 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza from a cooler vintage that produced some austere and serious wines--a year with higher acidity and lively fruit. It feels effervescent and it makes you salivate. This is usually a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo from 50-year-old vines that ferments in ancient oak vats, and ages in barrel for three years. This cuvée has increased its quality tremendously since the 1990s. These cooler years provide citric freshness, and a very fine texture and vibrant acidity. This is so easy to drink that it can be dangerous. This was the Rioja clarete fino--the everyday red. It's both elegant and powerful. Very good value, too.                              by Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate#226 31Aug 2016