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Giacomo Conterno

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Monfortino,是最偉大的Barolo,也是最偉大的義大利佳釀。自成一格且獨霸酒壇的Monfortino,只有在所有條件都俱備時才能生產,這些條件,在世代以父傳子的Giacomo Conterno酒莊,早已有著絲毫不可妥協的標準。由於Nebbiolo葡萄的特色所故,Monfortino並非以一般看似風調雨順的上好年份來當作唯一生產條件。在決定生產Monfortino的年份,Nebbiolo葡萄採收下來後,經過挑選就開始接近五週的的發酵與浸皮(maceration),在發酵過程中刻意的不控制發酵的溫度,所以溫度會輕易的攀爬上30度以上,這樣的高溫通常伴隨著隨時會讓發酵中斷的極大風險,因為如果因溫度過高而導致發酵中斷,整桶的葡萄汁(因為還沒完成發酵)就得丟棄,但相對的因為這樣極端的溫度,所以才能萃取出Nebbiolo最精華的一部份,讓香氣充滿層次的複雜度,酒體也兼具宏偉的深度與廣度,可以說世界上幾乎沒有其他酒款像Monfortino是在如此的極限中釀造完成,展現出磅礡無比的氣勢與超凡動人的絕高品質。

除了Monfortino這一款最偉大的佳釀之外,來自相同葡萄園-“Cascina Francia”的Barolo Francia一樣是膾炙人口且不可多得的極品。位於Serralunga d'Alba村內的“Cascina Francia”葡萄園是Giacomo Conterno酒莊最重要也是最引以為傲的葡萄園,這一片由Giovanni Conterno在1974年購入的地塊,可稱得是全Barolo甚至是全Piemonte最佳的葡萄園,適宜的坡地有著極佳的向陽面,石灰質的土壤有著相當良好的排水性,因此孕育出高品質的Nebbiolo葡萄,讓Giovanni Conterno滿意地停止原本還原需的外購葡萄,專心的釀製出提昇Giacomo Conterno酒莊名聲到至高地位的幾款佳釀。Giacomo Conterno2.jpg

如果說“Cascina Francia”葡萄園是Giovanni Conterno對家族的最大貢獻,那麼“Cerretta”葡萄園就是他的兒子Roberto Conterno承先啟後的里程碑。從1985年起,才17歲的Roberto Conterno就一直跟在父親Giovanni Conterno身旁學習釀酒並打理酒莊大小事務,經過多年的訓練,早已獨當一面且成績斐然。父親Giovanni Conterno在2004年高齡辭世之後,Roberto Conterno正式接掌酒莊,一個因緣際會,讓他在2008年購入這塊同樣位於Serralunga d'Alba村三公頃的“Cerretta”葡萄園,這是繼父親Giovanni Conterno於1974年購入”Cascina Francia”之後,Conterno家族第二次的購園。這三公頃的葡萄園,其中兩公頃種植Nebbiolo,另外一公頃種植Barbera,2008購入之後,Roberto Conterno隨即投入許多的心血逐一改進葡萄園,在兩年的整頓期間,謹慎的Roberto Conterno僅僅生產兩款紅酒-Barbera d’Alba和Langhe Nebbiolo,一直等到2010這一上好的年份達到理想的標準,才開始正式生產酒莊的第二款單一葡萄園Barolo-Barolo Cerretta

“Cascina Francia”和“Cerretta”這兩塊名園除了種植生產Barolo的Nebbiolo之外,當然跟傳統一樣也種植適合日常飲用的Barbera。也許是Nebbiolo鋒芒太露,使得世人多少忽視了Barbera的美味可口,不過Giacomo Conterno酒莊的兩款Barbera絕非泛泛之輩,年輕時所帶有的清新果味與酸度,可輕易的搭配所有美食,陳年後的Barbera酒體更加飽滿圓潤,不但展現Barbera親切美好的滋味,複雜豐富的口感變化,更加引人入勝,讓平凡的Barbera在餐桌上也能閃爍出巨星般的耀眼光芒!

睽違兩年,繼前一個年份2010之後,Monfortino 2013預計今年秋天上市,星澈酒品獻上這個全球首發的優先預購機會,義大利最頂尖的偉大佳釀,搶手程度可想而知!同時備受酒迷注目的還有Roberto Conterno在2015年從Cantina Gigi Rosso買下九公頃位於Serralunga d'Alba的Arione葡萄園之第一個年份作品-Barolo Arione 2015。義大利第一名莊的最新年份優先配額,敬請參考並把握難得的預購機會!

2015 Barolo Francia <限量> RP95-97 AG95-98 預購現金價****.-

2015 Barolo Cerretta <限量> RP95(14) AG94-97 預購現金價****.-

2015 Barolo Arione <首產年份 限量> RP94-96 AG93-96 預購現金價****.-

2017 Barbera d'Alba Francia RP95+(16) AG95(16) 預購現金價****.-

2017 Barbera d'Alba Cerretta RP94(16) AG94(16) 預購現金價****.-

2013 Barolo Riserva "Monfortino" <極限量> RP98-100 AG99

預購現金價*****.-/*****.-(1500ml)/******.-(3000ml)

※敬請務必同時一併預訂其它品項,以確保獲得Monfortino 2013優先配額※

I've been closely following the 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino for a few years now with annual tastings of the wine from barrel at the Giacomo Conterno winery in Monforte d'Alba. The last time we saw this wine was in 2010, and I readily gave that edition a perfect 100-point score. Monfortino was not made in 2011 or 2012, so this is the next available vintage. We can expect a finished wine ready for commercial release at the tail end of 2019. My impression of the wine now (one year later from the last barrel tasting) is that it has firmed up significantly in terms of structure and backbone. You can almost hear the crunch as you bite into the fresh and fruity fiber. That unique Monfortino crunchiness makes me think we can safely extend the drinking window on this modern day Italian icon.

      by Monica Larner, Wine Advocate#237 Jun 30 2018

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a huge, towering wine marked by serious fruit intensity and a backbone of firm, classically austere tannins. Certainly next to the 2014 and 2015, the sheer tannic clout of the 2013 is impossible to miss. Sage mint, tobacco and dried flower notes add striking shades of aromatic nuance, but the 2013 is ultimately distinguished by its huge, potent personality. It is sure to thrill those who own it for many decades to come. In 2013, Roberto Conterno did not bottle his Barolo Francia. Instead, he chose to use all of the fruit for the flagship Barolo Monfortino, which up until the present, he had only done once before, in 2002.   

                                                            by Antonio Galloni, Vinousmedia.com Nov 2018

AG: Antonio Galloni’s Vinousmedia.comRP: Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

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