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超越世紀的永恆經典

Biondi-Santi

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    在1994年9月28日,Biondi-Santi在Greppo酒窖中舉辦了一場罕見的世紀品酒會,莊主Franco Biondi-Santi邀請全世界最重要的專業媒體代表,包括Decanter,Wine Vinum , Vinotheque,Wine Enthusiast,Gambero Rosso , Civilta del Bere和Luigi Veronelli等等,品嚐了橫跨兩個世紀,從1888到1988一百年之間所生產最具代表性的15個年份Brunello di Montalcino Riserva* (1888,1891,1925,1945,1955,1964,1968,1970,1971,1975,1981,1983, 1985,1987,1988),代表Decanter雜誌的專家Nicolas Belfrage MW(Master of Wine)給了當時已經高齡103歲的1891年份10/10的滿分評價,對於這樣一瓶超老年份的葡萄酒還能展現出如此完美的風味,令人不可思議之際更是肯定了Brunello這個品種,或更正確的說是Biondi-Santi酒款無比長壽的實力。而另一個重量級的媒體Wine Spectator在1999年特別選出了代表二十世紀的最偉大12款酒中,Biondi-Santi的Brunello di Montalcino Riserva1955也榮登榜上,與Ch. Margaux 1900,Ch. d’Yquem 1921,La Romanée-Conti 1937,Ch.Cheval Blanc 1947,Ch. Pétrus 1961等等並列為史上最偉大的佳釀,也是入選榜中唯一款的義大利酒,時任主編的義大利酒專家James Suckling更是推崇至極地下了沒有偉大的老年份Biondi-Santi義大利酒將無以為是?的標題,為Biondi-Santi地位做最佳的詮釋。Biondi-Santi2.jpg

家族釀酒的歷史最早可以追溯到十八世紀,不過一直到1880年,才由Ferruccio Biondi-Santi正式為酒莊掛上Biondi-Santi的名稱(結合父親與母親的姓氏而成),繼承他的外祖父Clemente Santi對葡萄酒的無比熱忱,亟及將傳統的釀酒工藝家以發揚光大,他相當了解酒莊所擁有命名為Greppo的葡萄園之無窮潛力,當時十九世紀中期,因為全面侵襲歐洲的根蚜蟲害(phyloxera)及霜霉病(downy mildew)而拔除葡萄園重新種植時,大多數的當地酒莊均選擇重新種植外來品種來加入並柔化Sangiovese強勁厚實的口感,以釀造出輕柔易飲的酒款,為求能較迅速地回收投資成本之際,Ferruccio完全不隨波逐流,他認為Sangiovese這個義大利最廣泛種植的紅葡萄品種,雖然品質因地區而異,但Montalcino產區這塊得天獨厚的土地上,絕對可以孕育出最高品質的Sangiovese。他決定重新嫁接種植百分之百的Sangiovese,並且不斷選育配種以改良品種,所釀造的酒不斷獲得各項大賽的首獎,而最重要貢獻莫過於1932年,他所培育出來以Brunello命名的優秀新種Sangiovese正式被官方認定,有志一同的酒莊紛紛加入種植該品種,大大提升該產區的品質,至此之後Brunello di Montalcino成為義大利最高級的酒款之一,是唯一能與北義Piemonte的Barolo並駕齊驅的頂尖酒款。

於2013年過世的老莊主Franco博士,無庸置疑是帶領Biondi-Santi酒莊走過二十世紀,進入二十一世紀,且地位絲毫不曾撼動的靈魂人物。他非常驕傲並珍惜祖父Ferruccio與父親Tancredi Biondi-Santi所傳承下來的酒莊,面對近二、三十年流行超級托斯卡(Super Tuscan)的新潮流,他一樣還是堅決地捍衛Biondi-Santi酒莊的傳統理念,持續地以祖父及父親所傳承下來的方式照顧Greppo葡萄園,並致力於嚴格的品質把關,繼續釀造出一款款令人景仰的美好佳釀。酒莊所生產的最高級兩款酒Brunello di Montalcino和Brunello di Montalcino Riserva,都是精選最佳品質的葡萄,發酵後經過多年的培育才能所得,這兩款酒都具備相當長壽的特色,通常要經過長時間的陳年,才會逐漸綻放出美妙的丰采,而且在開瓶之後經過8~10小時,風味完全絲毫不會衰退並能轉變得更為豐富精彩。如此的長壽與耐喝,放眼全球酒壇,似乎沒有任何一款酒能與之相比,無怪乎Biondi-Santi有著獨特的國寶級地位。

星澈酒品獻上永遠最讓酒迷期待的珍貴佳釀--Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012,完美的偉大年份,標示 "Dedicato a Franco Biondi Santi"的特製酒標,正象徵他生命中最後一個年份的精采獻禮,別具意義的頂尖佳釀,特別回饋的貴賓優惠價,敬請參考並把握難得的預購良機!

2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva WE100 RP97 預購現金價*****.-

This is the final Riserva to benefit from the late Franco Biondi Santi's masterful hand. It boasts enticing scents of rose, underbrush, red berry, new leather and crushed mint. The chiseled palate features succulent Morello cherry, pomegranate, orange zest, star anise and a hint of tobacco, all framed in taut, polished tannins. Firm acidity lends youthful tension and keeps it impeccably balanced. Drink 2024–2062.                                             by Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast Jan 5 2020

You will notice the dedication printed below the label of the wine label. It reads: "Dedicato a Franco Biondi Santi." Indeed, the Biondi-Santi 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the last vintage made by the towering father figure of Brunello whom most everyone referred to as the "gentleman of Montalcino." Il Dottore, as he was also respectfully addressed, died at age 91 in April 2013, and he was very active in the winery as this magnificent wine took shape. This Riserva is a true work of beauty. It is released one year later than usual. The wine reflects the natural heft and power of the 2012 vintage, and it also shows that distinctive open-knit and accessible personality that characterizes this warm and sunny growing season. Il Dottore's magic touch is revealed in the level of fine detail and precision that transcends vintage, grape and territory. That extreme focus is an achievement of this estate alone located in the celebrated Il Greppo property. This Brunello pours from the bottle with a magnificent garnet color, and it evolves in the glass with dark fruit, candied orange peel, spice, licorice, anise seed, cola and balsam herb. The aromas are magical and ethereal, albeit slightly ripe and soft as expected of this vintage.                              

                                    by Monica Larner, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Jun 5 2020

預購期限:2020年6月12日或售完為止,此份報價不含運費,刷卡需另加手續費2~3%.預購交貨日:預計2020年第四季 WE: Wine Enthusiast RP: Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

 

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