大師的磅礡巨作

Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche Riserva 2014

Azienda Agricola Falletto di Bruno Giacosa

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木訥且謙虛的Bruno Giacosa先生,在許多外界的眼光中就像是個謎樣的人物,面對眾多以朝聖心情前往拜訪的酒迷或媒體,他鮮少談論自己所謂的釀酒哲理、成就等云云,所以終究也只能簡單地將他歸納為”傳統派”。不過Bruno Giacosa先生的寡言其實是認為他所釀的酒就可以說明一切,在一系列的酒款中,都闡釋了各塊葡萄園不同的風土滋味以及釀造者對於葡萄的鍾愛與無微不至的照顧。由於從開始的一段長時間,酒莊都是以買來的葡萄釀酒,為了找尋最佳的葡萄來源,Bruno Giacosa先生足跡踏遍Piemonte產區的每一塊土地,從1961年酒標開始冠上其名字開始,至少釀造過來自9個Barolo和8個Barbaresco葡萄園的葡萄酒,對於這一片義大利最重要的知名產區可謂瞭若指掌,而且Bruno Giacosa先生天生有著過人的味蕾,可以輕易的嚐試分辨出不同區塊的最佳葡萄,所以不論是買來的葡萄(Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa酒標)或是自家擁有的葡萄園(Azienda Agricola Falletto di Bruno Giacosa酒標),他總是能讓葡萄恰如其份的展現出絕佳的自然風味,釀成一款款有著無比深度的難得佳釀。image

"Genius of Neive"、"Barolista"(用來尊稱最偉大的Barolo釀酒師)等等頭銜都是外界用來對Bruno Giacosa先生表達的最高敬意,他不但是唯一一家同時以Barbaresco(Santo Stefano)和Barolo(Le Rochhe del Falleto Riserva)兩款酒入選Decanter雜誌2008年四月號封面文章”Italy’s 50 Greatest Ever Wines”,連現今雄霸國際市場的義大利葡萄酒頭號人物Angelo Gaja都不只一次地表示,在他心目中,被眾人認為是”傳統派大師”的Bruno Giacosa,一直以來是除了其父親之外,他最景仰的偉大釀酒家。而在酒評大師Robert Paker的心目中,全世界的葡萄酒在購買之前他都必須先品試過,惟獨Bruno Giacosa的酒除外;Robert Paker更進一步的說如果限制他只能從全義大利的佳釀中選一瓶,那絕非是Bruno Giacosa偉大的Barbaresco或Barolo莫屬,無比推崇之意溢於言表

雖說酒莊位在Barbaresco產區Neive村內,但Bruno Giacosa先生卻是少數聲譽同時橫跨Barbaresco和Barolo的傑出釀酒家。豐富且精妙,充滿勁道與結構張力,如同他那眾人愛慕的Barbaresco,Bruno Giacosa先生在過去超過50年期間,一個年份接著一個年份,也釀造出許多款令人驚嘆動人的偉大Barolo。image

從在1964年推出的第一款Barbaresco單一葡萄園Santo Stefano,Bruno Giacosa先生以購買來的葡萄,釀遍了Piemonte產區的每一片最佳葡萄園。在Barolo,他陸陸續續釀過來自Collina Rionda、Bussia 、Arione、Falletto、Pugnane、Villero、Ginestra等出色的單一葡萄園。由於Bruno Giacosa先生堅持等待最佳的葡萄園,酒莊終於在1982年購入了第一塊的Falletto葡萄園,這一塊位於Serralunga村南端葡萄園,面積約為8.4公頃,地理和風土條件均十分優異,Bruno Giacosa先生花費了相當多得心神來發掘這塊寶地的潛力,越是投入,越是發現Falletto葡萄園無窮的潛力與樂趣,經過十餘年的探索,Bruno Giacosa先生甚至從90年代中開始決定僅釀造生產來自自家Falletto葡萄園的Barolo。

Bruno Giacosa先生發覺在Falletto葡萄園上坡的四個區塊,風土條件格外突出,因為有這四個區塊的優異葡萄,讓他能釀出膾炙人口的Barolo Falletto Riserva(紅標精選版),從1985、1896、1989、1990到1996,款款都是Barolo歷史上的經典。因此在1997年,Bruno Giacosa先生進一步決定將這四個區塊與其他區塊分開,單獨釀造裝瓶,這就是”Le Rocche del Falletto”(the Rock of Falletto)的誕生。雖然在接下來的1997、1998和1999三個年份達不到Bruno Giacosa先生的至高標準,Le Rocche del Falletto僅以一般的白標裝瓶,但已經展現頂尖的品質。而天公作美的2000、2001、2004、2007和2008,最後順利裝瓶為紅標的Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva,更是世間罕見的完美佳釀。(備註:從2011年份開始,因應新的法定產區規定不得加註村莊名字,酒標改名標示為”Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche Riserva”)

星澈酒品獻上Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche Riserva 2014,等待多年的最新年份,展現出磅礡的王者氣勢,令其他人甘願俯首稱臣,同時推薦白標一般款的Barolo Falletto 2014,一樣可謂是最頂尖的義大利佳釀。極限量特價供應,敬請參考並把握預購良機!

2014 Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche Riserva RP97 預購現金價*****.-

This red label Riserva was made in 2012 and 2014 and will be released in 2016 and 2017. Bruna Giacosa and her team skipped over 2013 and 2015. However, the current release is the 2014 Barolo Riserva Falletto Vigna Le Rocche, and well, there's a lot to take in. Simply put, this is a beautiful wine that unfolds slowly with amazing intensity and complexity, delivering delicate notes of violets and candied orange peel that cede softly to darker tones of licorice, dried blackberry and savory spice. Give the wine the time it needs to open in the glass. This vintage flaunts its most elegant side, with fine tannins and soft fruity fiber that remains everlasting and pure. This estate is known for taking its biggest chances in the so-called off vintages. Betting on 2014 has turned out to be a brilliantly contemplated move.                               Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate#243 June 29 2019

2014 Barolo Falletto RP95 預購現金價****.-

This wine was made in 2011 and 2012 but not in 2013. The 2014 Barolo Falletto (white label) is fascinating to taste right after the Barbaresco Riserva Asili from the same vintage. There is no doubting the extra muscle mass and power that is obtained in the Barolo appellation, and from the Serralunga d’Alba township specifically. This dramatic Barolo delivers darkness and density. It shows a beautiful appearance with faint highlights of dark ruby that add a subtle sparkle. At this point in its drinking cycle, the wine shows all the characteristic traits of its youth. This means it is more closed and rigid at present. That nervous tightness needs to be factored in when assessing the cellar longevity of this vintage. Hints of the wine’s inner complexity, sheer determination and textural fortitude are already bubbling up from deep inside this firmly layered Nebbiolo. I wanted to mention the tightness of the tannins now. These will undoubtedly serve to carry this wine forward over the coming decades.                             Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate#237 June 30 2018

預購期限:2020年4月6日或售完為止,此份報價不含運費,刷卡需另加手續費2~3%.預購交貨日:預2020年第四季

RP: Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

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