再度完美評價的真正西班牙酒皇

Dominio de Pingus

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Peter Sisseck has done it again! He's crafted an otherworldly Pingus in the superb 2014 vintage in the Ribera del Duero region. All of the wines from that year are simply unbelievable, with possibly the best version of Flor de Pingus ever, and a Pingus that rivals the already perfect 2012.

原本在法國波爾多酒莊工作的丹麥人Peter Sisseck,在1990年跟他的舅舅Peter Vinding-Diers來到西班牙位於Ribera del Duero產區的Hacienda Monasterio酒莊擔任釀酒師的工作。Peter對於Ribera del Duero產區內遍佈許多優異的老藤葡萄園,印象深刻同時深覺得極有發展潛力,因此他四處拜訪,尋找最佳的葡萄來源,在1995年他找到三塊樹齡超過60年的葡萄園,精選其生產的Tinta del Pais(即Tempranillo)葡萄釀成了共3,900瓶的佳釀,並以其孩童時的小名命名為Pingus,全世界最具影響力的酒評專家-Robert Parker先生在隔年三月品嘗過這款尚未裝瓶的樣品酒時,大為驚嘆其不凡的頂尖水準,立即在他該年八月出版的Wine Advocate雜誌中給於(96-100分)的接近完美之評價,並盛讚道:『這是我生命中喝到過最好的紅酒之一!』,對一個年輕人所釀造出來的第一個年份酒款即有如此超高的評價,絕對是空前未見的。評分一出,美國市場的訂單旋即而來,不過或許是老天爺也想享用此等佳釀,第一批載著九百瓶1995年份Pingus的貨輪MV Elise不幸的在1997年11月24日遇到大浪翻沒,這個意外讓原本最後產量稀少的Pingus,更加炙手可熱,多方熱烈爭購,每瓶售價一舉突破500美元,成為最昂貴的西班牙酒,不過這絕對不是只是曇花一現的美麗巧合,眼光獨具且天份洋溢的Peter,在接下來的每一個年份都持續釀造出頂尖水準的Pingus,獲得更多國際專業媒體與酒迷的肯定與喝采,許多年份在競相收藏的喊價之下,加上每個年份僅僅生產300~500箱,每瓶售價突破1000美金甚至2000美金,成為全世界酒壇最名貴的佳釀之一,更是知名葡萄酒專業網站Wine-Searcher專文報導中西班牙最昂貴的葡萄酒第一名。

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除了已經聲名遠播的Pingus之外,Peter的Dominio de Pingus還生產另一款極為優秀的酒款-Flor de Pingus,或許由於價位僅約Pingus的十分之一,一般人習慣將Flor de Pingus稱之為Pingus的二軍酒,但是實際上Flor de Pingus並不是如同一般二軍酒採用一軍酒較年輕的葡萄所生產的,Flor de Pingus的葡萄園是完全和Pingus分開來的,Peter除了兩片約4.5公頃用來生產Pingus的葡萄園之外,另外也擁有十六片位在La Horra村的葡萄園,這十六片面積合計約20公頃的葡萄園,都是Peter精心挑選的優異地塊,種植平均樹齡約35年的Tinta del Pais,葡萄園在2005年全面導入生物動力法(Pingus的兩片葡萄園是在2000年就全面導入),每公頃種植密度從6000~10000株,嚴格控制產量,每公頃僅約生產12~20百公升。另一點和在大木槽中發酵的Pingus不同的地方,Flor de Pingus是在4000公升的不鏽鋼槽中進行發酵,酒精發酵完畢之後,放入法國橡木桶中進行乳酸發酵(新桶比例約50%),乳酸發酵完成後再繼續於法國橡木桶進行16~18個月的陳年培醞。

Peter過人的遠見和天賦,讓Pingus與Flor de Pingus成為葡萄酒聖殿上最出類拔萃的超級佳釀。Peter Sisseck最厲害之處是可以將Tinta del Pais葡萄中所有精華的元素都萃取釀入酒中,但完全沒有車庫酒常見的那種壓得人喘不過氣的濃郁厚重,反而是展現出無比剔透的純淨和細膩精緻的優雅,無怪乎從問世自今,備受酒迷和專業媒體的肯定,在Wine Advocate中,年年獲得超高評價,除了最先Robert Parker的慧眼識英雄外,Pingus 2004獲得當初主筆Jay Miller的100分,而最近接手的Luis Gutierrez在兩年前將Pingus 2012再度評為完美的100分之後,最新上市的Pingus 2014更讓他讚賞不已,只能獻上再一次的100分完美評價來肯定其無懈可擊的品質和無人可及的地位!與其說Peter推升了西班牙葡萄酒達到空前絕無的至高地位,倒不如說是他樹立了一瓶好酒所應該具有的雋永風格。

星澈酒品為您獻上最新上市的2014年份Pingus 和Flor de Pingus,限量回饋驚喜價,敬請參考並把握預購良機!

2014 Pingus <極限量,僅生產4,800瓶> RP100 預購現金價*****.-

I don't think I've ever tasted a wine more recently bottled than the 2014 Pingus, which was bottled in the morning and I tasted it that very same evening! Peter Sisseck compares this to the 1995, the first vintage ever produced, when he learned that when you have such perfect grapes, you should do very little to the wine. He's been trying to replicate that first vintage, but there's nothing you can do to force it, as it has to be the natural conditions of the vintage that bring those grapes. What he also learned with the 1995 was that with wines like that, you need a long and slow aging in oak; so for the 2014, he decided to do a little longer élevage—three winters in barrel—but in 100% used barrels, something he started in 2012. If it would have been new oak, as in the past, it would have been impossible to have such extended aging without marking the wine too much and possibly forever. The wine was quite tannic to start with, but it was racked every six months, and in that way they have managed to tame those tannins without getting the wine tired, as the aging itself was quite reductive. The nose is quite harmonious and open, but maybe not very expressive, a normal thing considering the extremely short bottle age it had (hours!), but it should gain precision in bottle. In instances like this, you have to guide yourself by the palate. And it's precisely on the palate where you find that texture that is almost unique to Ribera del Duero when it's as perfect as this. It's very different from other zones, a velvety mouthfeel and a surrounding sensation of comfort, incredibly long. The tannins are ultra fine and with that subtle chalkiness of the limestone soils, which also added to the tastiness and the supple aftertaste. In short, I cannot think of a way of improving this Pingus other, than getting a magnum instead of a regular bottle! Congratulations, Peter Sisseck! 4,800 bottles were filled on January 16th of 2017, a slightly shorter production than the average, because part of the vines were hit by hail and didn't make it into the final blend. Now stay tuned for 2015 and 2016.

2014 Flor de Pingus RP94 預購現金價****.-

The 2014 Flor de Pingus could very well be the finest vintage of this cuvée ever. It could be considered their 'village' wine, as all the grapes come from La Horra, from four different quarters (El Pino, Fuentearriba, Fuentenarro and Castillo); they are mostly old vines, as they have some 25 hectares of those in the village, mostly from the 1950s. In the future it will also have some grapes from younger vineyards they planted 'à l'ancien', with a massale selection of Amelia, riparia rootstocks, etc. The wine is very aromatic and expressive, floral and spicy, with the oak nicely folded into the fruit, which is ripe without excess, and the alcohol is also nicely disguised, as it's high but does not show. It's a powerful and full-bodied vintage for this cuvée, but keeping its approachability and appeal. The tannins are very fine and the finish quite remarkable. A mini-Pingus at a very different price.

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